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Karan founded in the late eighties, will not be on the next calendar of the New York Fashion Week (NYFW). A few days ago the firm announced that instead of parading in the Big Apple next February will organize appointments with press and buyers in your showroom.
The low adds to others that will make this a decaffeinated edition of the catwalk. Tommy Hilfiger, Tom Ford, Rebecca Minkoff, Rachel Comey and Rachel Zoe have announced that they will show their collections for the next autumn-winter in Los Angeles, instead of in New York.
The main reasons are two looks for warmer climates and a media exposure that, although it will not be greater, yet different. Tommy Hilfiger, who in the last edition of the NYFW mounted a gigantic festival in a dock of the city next to the model Gigi Hadid, will repeat this time the experience but in the beach of Venice.
Of Tom Ford’s plans little is known, but it is rumored that he could match his show with the Oscars, which will take place on February 26. In the past, the designer and film director has already broken with the traditional format of the parades, changing them for private presentations without social networks and with the help of friends like Julianne Moore or Beyoncé.
The company does not go through its best moment. Last summer, the LVMH group sold the brand to G-III Apparel Group, the conglomerate owner among other firms such as Ivanka Trump’s fashion line.
The change did not please either the executive president, who left DKNY or her two designers, Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow, who also left her. “Given the sale of the company and the consequent change in strategy, we have decided to retire and focus on our own business, Public School,” they said in a statement. None of the three has been found a substitute to date.
Karan herself left in 2015 for the company she founded because of her disagreements with LVMH. In its day, it was one of the pillars that supported the New York Fashion Week along with other major American brands that revitalized local fashion in the eighties.
Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein. From the beginning, Karan positioned herself as “the woman who understood (and dressed) women”, creating separate pieces that could be combined with each other to create a complete and multifunctional wardrobe.
“He created a way of dressing that was feminine, practical and empowering, and everything came from a personal and instinctive place, he always let his empathetic heart dominate over his head, ” Anna Wintour said of her when she left.
If the catwalks are changing festivals instead of parades, immediate shopping without waiting for the collections to reach stores, why are the campaigns still the same as they were 20 years ago? Miuccia Prada, who unlike Donna Karan shows no signs of retiring, did not seem coherent and has taken Prada 365 out of her sleeve, which the brand defines as a “continuous stream of visual data”. The system replaces the idea of ”one season, one image” and will be visible in several channels.
The website that supports the project has been active for a few days and includes hundreds of portraits, all by Willy Vanderperre, who replaces Steven Meisel as Prada’s chief photographer, arranged in the form of “stories” starring Jude Law and models like Saskia of Brauw and Kiki Willems.